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Phlib: the next generation


I am delighted to announce that Harry has just become a Father. Little Coco is a bundle of joy and features heavily on the office Phlib frames. Congratulations Harry!


Bigger is better!


News just in... the 5x5 Hipstamatic frame is available! You'll have to be quick though because we only have a limited run. Don't miss out on your chance to be in the very select 5x5 crew!


Each frame holds 25 photos which is the largest Phlib frame to date. We had a little play around though and created the 10x10! 100 hundred of your favourite Hipstamatic photos, filling most of your wall! All you need is 4 of the 5x5s. It's our most affordable photowall to date!


Grab yours here! 



DIY camera from Lomagraphy



Do you like building models? And do you like photography? (...of course you do!) If these two things tickle your fancy then the good people at Lomography have just the thing for you; The Konstruktor camera.   

The Konstruktor is a build-your-own camera kit. Not only is this great for DIY enthusiasts, but also for people that would like to learn more about how photography works and what it is exactly, the camera is doing. 

It has been so many years since I've owned a piece of kit like this. The most satisfying part is always breaking off the pieces! 

As you can see from the video below, there are quite a lot of very fiddly components in the camera and a little patients is probably necessary! Lomography has some very detailed and helpfuls resources on not just building the camera, but operating it too. Check it out here.  


I personally found making a pinhole camera a little too fiddly so I think I'd struggle with this! This DIY 35mm camera comes in at a very reasonable £29.99. Buy yours here. Worth checking out for something to do during the rain!

Peace out, Carl



Cool or creepy?


It sounds like something out of 1950's science fiction, but HD video camera glasses are now available to the masses! 

Sounds like a fantastic innovation - but you only have to look at the guy below to see that there is some room for misuse! Luckily they don't look inconspicuous. There is very blatantly a camera in the bridge of the nose which would thwart any sneaky spy attempts.   

There's a mini SD slot that will take up to 16GB of recording! The battery however is limited to just 50 minutes. 

Could certainly add something different to your home videos.

Buy the HD You Vision Video Glasses at the Photojojo Store!
So... do I think these are cool or creepy? Well, both actually. I do think the idea is very quirky and embarraces the 1950s retro futurism that I love. But I also think if the technology allows these spec to become a lot more discrete, then in the wrong hands, this product could actually be quite worrying!

Peace out, sleep well, Carl. 



How to Unload Your Pinhole Camera Film.



So you've built your camera, filled you film with (hopefully) wonderful photos and now you want to get them developed. Here's how to safely remove your film without light leaks or damage. Doing it this way also means you can use the camera body again and again! 

The first thing you need to do is remove the plastic clicker. If you try to wind the film back with the clicker in place, you risk tearing the film. Peel away some of the tape around the clicker, remove it and then tape back down to ensure it's lightproof again. Be careful not to tape the film down or you won't be able to rewind it!

Now simply rewind the film back into the original canister. I found the easiest way was to use both hands - one on each film. Gently turn both canisters anticlockwise until the film is back to it's original position. You may want to create another ring pull winder to make it easier. I didn't bother though - too eager to see my photos!


Once your film is nicely wound back into the canister, your photos are safe - hurray! Peel back the tape connecting the canister to the matchbox. Do this gently if reusing the camera. Now cut the film from the empty canister and you're all set to get them developed. 

When developing your photos it's best to tell the lab that the film came from a pinhole camera and that the frames may be a little irregular. Probably best to just ask for developing and scanning; you can then choose how your photos are cropped instead of the lab cutting photos in half because of their irregular spacing.


So that's how you unload your pinhole camera! I hope lots of you give this a try because it's a lot of fun. The results can be messy and completely unexpected, but that's all part of the fun! If you want to re-use your camera, simply attach the clicker to the new film, remove the tray, tape the film back to the remainder of the old film, re-insert the tray and tape shut. Now your ready to go again. This time you'll probably have a lot more knowledge about what does and doesn't work and as a result, your photos will be better this time! If your photos were disappointing the first time around, I recommend giving it another shot.

To see the photos from my first roll click here. Don't forget to show us what you come up with on our Facebook page. Peace out and happy clicking!

- Carl



I Made a Pinhole Camera! Here's How to Make Yours!



A pinhole camera is a small camera with no lens, just a small aperture. Effectively it's a lightproof box with a tiny tiny hole. The light that passes through the hole projects an image onto the film inside. Here's my attempt - it's not pretty but it works! I learnt this technique from Here's a list of everything you'll need to make your own.

  • Ruler
  • Plastic binder
  • Aluminium can
  • New roll of 35mm film (and the box)
  • An old roll of 35mm film (with 1cm film left on the roll)
  • Match box
  • Small sewing needle or pin
  • Scissors
  • Black tape
  • Sellotape
  • Craft nice
  • Black marker pen

First thing’s first, we’re gonna build the camera body. This is what the matchbox is for. Take out the match tray and mark out a 24mm square, smack bang in the centre. This will give you square format pictures. If, however, you want rectangular photos, you need to use a 36mm x 24mm rectangle instead.


Now you need to cut the shape out. The cut edges will be the edges of the photos, so if you cut is rough, the frames of your photos will be rough! You might prefer this!

You don’t want any extra light getting into the camera so internal reflections in the camera need to be reduced. This is where the marker pen comes in handy! Colour the inside of the tray and ideally the matchbox sleeve too.


Mark and cut out a 6mm square in the centre of the matchbox sleeve. This cut needs to be very neat because rough fibres could obscure the image.


Now you need to make the pin hole. First thing you need to do is drink your drink! I went for a nice ale to help warm up this wintery month. Cut out a 15mm square, then using the needle, gently press and twist into the metal to create a tiny hole. Don’t be too rough, the aim is to produce a very small hole - about 0.2mm - with a nice clean edge. I pushed the pin too far through and the hole was a bit to big so had to try again. Go slowly and get it right. 

Once you’ve made the hole, colour the back to reduce internal reflections.

Place the aluminium onto the match box so that the hole is in the middle, and then secure all sides with the black tape.

Like all cameras, we need a shutter to control the light that is exposed to the film. We’re gonna use the box from the film for this. You need to cut out two pieces. The first is a 32mm square and the second is a 25mm x 40mm rectangle. Once that’s done, cut a 6mm square into the centre of the square.

Then, colour the rectangle with the pen to help prevent light leaks. I coloured both sides just to be safe.  

Place the square over the pinhole, tape down three sides making sure to leave the top free for the shutter. Now slide the rectangle into the gap, making sure it covers the pinhole completely. This is the shutter - exciting!

Instead of guessing how far along you need to wind the film after each photo, we're gonna incorporate a little clicker to tell us when to stop winding. For this you need to take the spiral ring binder and trim off one of the loops. 

Place this loop on the new film canister making sure the point enters the sprocket holes of the film. Now tape into place. To test it out, pull the film out slightly, the plastic should slip in and out of each hole smoothly producing a slight click as it goes.


Cut the edge of the film off square ready to load the camera. Pull out some film and feed through the camera, remembering to make sure the emulsion is facing the pinhole. The emulsion is the non-shiny side of the film.


You need to make sure there is some left over film protruding from the old film canister. Tape this very neatly and square to the new film roll. This needs to be aligned well so it can feed seamlessly into the canister. Make sure the empty canister is the opposite way up to the full one.


Now slide the tray back into the box. Make sure the film is at the back of the camera and the square/rectangle you cut into the tray is directly on the film.


Wind the film back into the fresh roll nice and tight. Hopefully you should be able to pull it tight enough that you have no film exposed. Now tape both films in place. Pay careful attention to the points where the film enters the canisters - you don't want to tape any of the film so it can't move. Be especially careful when taping the clicker. Try placing a small strip of card over the clicker where the film canister meets the matchbox. This means the film can move freely under the card.

Also take care where taping the canisters not to impede the film roll - you want to keep this free to wind film on! Make sure every area that could let light in is tape up, this will reduce the amount of light leaks in your photos.


To make it nice and easy to wind on, we're going to add a winder. For this we're just going to use the ring pull from the can. Simple. Just bend the bottom so that it fits into the small cylinder of the empty film canister. Then tape it in place. Be careful when taping that you don't obstruct the winding mechanism on the canister. You need to ensure that the film can still wind freely.

To stop the film winding back after you've wound it forward, you'll need to add some tension. For this were just gonna use a bit of tissue. Stuff the tissue into the hole at the other end of the empty canister, then use a piece of tape over the tissue to secure it. Remember you want resistance, but you still need the film to wind on! 


That's pretty much your camera done! Because some of the exposure times can be quite long, I'm taping mine to a small piece if card and attaching it to a mini tripod. Simply resting the camera on a steady surface will work just fine though.


So there it is - It's not pretty but it's a lot of fun! Time to get out and take some photos. To take a photo, simply remove the piece of shutter card that's covering the pinhole. Make sure you remember to replace the piece of card when finished to stop the exposure. Your camera's f number is roughly f8. Use these timings as a loose guide for ISO 100 or 200 film:

Outside (sunny): 1 - 2 seconds.

Outside (cloudy): 5 seconds

Indoors (regular room lighting): 5 - 10 minutes 

'How do I know how long to wind the film after each photo?' I hear you ask. Well if you've opted for the square hole in the tray (24mm), then 6 clicks should be enough. If you went for the 36 x 24mm rectangle then go for 8 clicks. It's easy to forget to wind the camera on if your used to digital photography, but that can have some pretty interesting effects! Read our blog about double exposures here.

I bet you're wondering what masterpieces I created with this little pile of tape and card... check them out here!

When the film won't wind any further, you've reach the end. How sad - yet exciting! To rewind the film you need to undo some tape and remove the clicker. Light proof it again with the tape and rewind the film back into it's canister. For a more detailed guide on safely removing the film, click here. This way you'll be able to use the camera again by adding a fresh roll of film!

Enjoy! Do let us see what you come up with on our Facebook page. Peace out and happy snapping, Carl.



The All New Hipstamatic Photo Explosion...



Our Hipstamatic frames have always been the coolest way to display your Hipstamatic & Instagram photos. We then introduced the 9 piece Hipstamatic explosion where your favourite Hipstamatic photo was split across your entire Phlib frame. Well now we've gone one step further! Introducing... the 36 piece Hipstamatic photo explosion! This is your favourite Hipstamatic photo, split across 4 (FOUR!) Phlib frames.

Check out our 4 frame Hipstamatic mega bundle here. Get 4 Phlib Hipstamatic frames with a whopping £60 saving! With the Hipstamatic mega bundle you get the option of 36 single photos or the 36 piece photo explosion!

Be part of the revolution. Photos belong on your wall... not your phone!



Phlib loves the Lomography Spinner!



Have you ever heard of the Spinner 360 by Lomography? It's awesome! It lets you take 360 panoramas in a second. There's no need for a tripod so you can take your panoramas to some pretty exciting places. Check out the video below to see how it works. 

Harry has been experimenting with the Spinner and as well as having a load of fun, he found that the photos are very compatible with a number of Phlib frames!  The frame combinations used in this blog are:

  • 3 Phlib 2x2s
  • Phlib 1x4 + 2 Singles
  • 4 Phlib 3x3s
  • Phlib 3x3

What a great way to experiment with photography and also displaying photography! Love these.

Peace out, Carl.



Film scanning... on your phone!


It's no secret that phones are getting smarter and this latest feature will get the film users among us intrigued. Lomography have created a film scanner for your phone! Check out the video below.

The Smartphone Film Scanner is small and can easily be transported. Whilst back-lit photo scanners also exist for scanning negatives, these scanners are large and cumbersome. The Smartphone Film Scanner is small enough to fit in your bag or rucksack, allowing you to scan films away from home. It’s 100% mobile and easy to use.  

I own a flatbed scanner with a attachment for negatives but the problems I have with this is that the scanner automatically divides each frame. I like to experiment with how I wind my film between photos. Winding halfway gives merges 2 photos into a much longer photo. It can create really interesting effects. The app that comes with the scanner lets you scan the film then split the frames how ever you want. You can even turn your photos into an animation. This is great if you are using a film video camera. Quite a rarity these days but Lomography sell a retro 35mm video camera called the Lomokino. The results are pretty fun! Check out the film below:

Below is a photo scanned with the Lomography Smartphone Scanner and I must admit, it's much better quality than I had imagined it would be! Although I'm sure the scanning quality is only as good as your phone's camera. The camera on my phone is much lower quality than the latest iPhones, so I'm sure my photos would be lower in quality. I do however think this is a great piece of kit to help make film photography more accessible to the public.

The Lomography Smartphone Scanner is not available yet, but they are raising the funds via the project funding website Kickstarter. Check out the full project and donate here. The more you donate, the greater your reward! 

This is not just a product for film users but also for people with old family photos that they want digitised. 



Christmas Photo Competition Winner!


And the winner is... Sara Jaconelli! Well done! Your prize is on it's way!

Keep your eyes peeled for future competitions on our Facebook page and Newsletter.

Buried Treasures...



The attic space; lots of us have them but unless it's been converted into an actual room, it usually has one purpose... storage! On the weekend I thought I'd help Dad sort out the decades of junk that has accumulated in his attic. I'm very glad I did because in amongst the cat shaped tea pots and Showaddywaddy LPs was this little buried treasure! It's called the Vest Pocket Kodak Autographer (VPK) and was produced from 1912 - 1926 and was the most popular pocket sized camera of it's day. 

My Dad doesn't recall ever seeing it before so perhaps it was there when he moved in. I've done a bit of research and found the specs of the Vest Pocket Kodak.


This was the successor of the long praised collapsible large Kodak cameras.
It's success was due to the small size and price. They sold for $6. This price was possible due to it's simpler construction, instead of  wood, metal, leather of the older and bigger models, the VPK was made of an aluminium alloy fastened with rivets. That explains why there are still so many, in very good condition, today.


Here are some of the cameras features:

  • Single meniscus lens about 75mm 1:11
  • Three blades, Kodak ball bearing shutter, 1/25, 1/50 B and T
  • Fixed focus ~1.8m to infinity
  • 8, 4x7cm, exposures on 127 film
  • Folding bellows in trellis struts
  • Autographic window and stylus 
  • Size and weight: 67x121x30mm, 316g
Pulling the lens plate all the way, about 70mm, it clicks and stays rigid and focused. Now your ready for the shot. Compose the image using the bright viewfinder that can be turned 90 degrees to take landscape pictures.


The apertures are marked as 1-2-3-4. 1 = f11 the others should be 16, 22 and 32.
The numbers have corresponding scenes to help you choose. They are:

  1. Near view Portraits
  2. Average view
  3. Distant view
  4. Clouds Marine


The circular port on the back can be removed to clean the back of the lens. It also features a small red window that was used to view the advancement of the film.


The reason it was call the Vest Pocket Autographer is firstly because of it's small sized and secondly because of the scribe feature on the back. There is another small window on the back of the camera and a small stylus that allows you to scratch a quick note on the film between photos. Such as location or camera settings used. 

Unfortunately, the shutter switch doesn't work on mine. I have however found a site that includes step by step guides on restoring old cameras. If you want to restore an old camera, this site may be able to help you out. The VPK is listed so I will be attempting a fix on this very soon. 127 film can be picked up on ebay so hopefully this camera will soon once again take photos! On the classic cameras blog, I found lots of information as well as photos recently taken on a near 100 year old VPK camera and the results are stunning! Take a look below.



Do you have a classic camera story? Let us know and we'll blog about it! E-mail or send us a photo and info on our Facebook page.

I'll keep you posted on my progress with this excellent find. And remember to check your attic - you never know what you'll find!




Create Your Own Christmas Cards...


There's nothing quite like a receiving a home made Christmas card. It almost feels like a present in itself - you know that a lot more effort has gone into it than a bumper pack of cards from Tesco.


All it takes is a simple winter photo to make a great card. I didn't have to go far for this one - just into the garden! I know there are some fantastic photographers among you, so you should have no problem with this project. It makes the laborious task of writing out piles of Xmas card much more exciting when it's cards of your own design. 

There are two ways to make your card - depending on how computer savy you are. The first is to print your photo, stick it to a piece of A4 card (folded in half), then trim the card to the size of the photo. If your more computer and less craftsy, then try printing the photo on a single sheet of card. First thing to do is open your photo in a piece of photo editing software such as Photoshop. Then change the canvas size to create the back of the card. If you want the fold at the top of the card, then double the height of the canvas, keeping the image to the bottom. If, however, you want the fold on the side of the card; double the width of the canvas, ensuring you keep the photo to the right of the canvas. Now just print, trim and fold!


Add a professional touch to your cards buy adding text. This can be done while you're in Photoshop. Simple.


Be creative with your cards! For a truly enjoyable card, for both you to make and for your friends/family to receive, try doing something different. Everyone gets a pile of robin or snowman cards every year, being inventive will make your card stand out even more.
The example bellow was a card I gave to my girlfriend a couple years ago. She was spending the winter on a work placement in Dubai and I was flying out to spend Christmas with her. I wrapped myself up as a gift for the card because my gift to her that year... was me! I actual had no help with this photo - felt a little embarrassed to ask! I managed to set up a tripod, compose the shot, wrap myself up then set the timer for a photo. Still don't quite know how I managed it! The snowflakes were added in Photoshop for an extra Christmasy feel.


So there you have it. It's very simple and very rewarding for all! Get into the Christmas spirit and go make a card!

Merry Christmas, Carl.



Christmas Shipping Deadlines...



My Cycle to Work (Overlooked Details)


How many of you cycle to work? I love cycling to work, but recently I was thinking about why. I came to the conclusion that you're better connected with everything around you. You don't just ride past trees and bushes - you often brush through them! When it rains - you get wet! You can say hello to people you ride past instead of just waving. Now I know not all of these things sound like good things, but they certainly make you feel more alive. We live in an age now where we spend most of our time staring at screens and communication without speaking.
We get in our cars and we drive from A to B without much thought. This can also be the case when cycling but it's a lot harder to ignore the things you encounter on route. You're also much more in control when cycling. If you see something interesting - stop and look at it! You won't be holding anyone else up. That's just what I decided to do one morning last week. I took my smallest camera along for the ride to document some of the things on the 8.5 mile cycle to work, that I usually ignore. Turns out there are some pretty quirky stops on route to Phlib HQ.


First thing's first is the happy tile. This isn't usually overlooked - it's tradition in my house to salute the happy tile on a daily basis! He brings a little cheer to the ever darkening mornings.

When cycling in the countryside, it's easy to overlook some very simple thing such as how tall some of the trees are or how interesting the ploughed lines in fields look.

There's a junk shop about 3 miles into the journey. It's always got some peculiar things outside, but now it appears to house a giant wooden shark! It's a confusing site so early in the morning.

Time for a quick water break at the halfway point, but then it's straight back to the hustle and bustle of the road.


After a few more miles, past the war memorial, I get to the railway station. None of the trains run this early, which is a shame because this is about the point that I start to run out if steam!


Only a couple miles to go now and I can see the river that runs past Phib HQ. That's aways a happy sight! By the river are the church ruins of Cleeve Abby. Beautiful place - does look a bit dull this time in the morning though.


There are a few old fashioned petrol stations on my route but this one in particular I find a little strange. Not sure why, just reminds me of the film: 'The Hills Have Eyes'! The buildings have some interesting decorations too. 


I really like this car, it's in a bit of a state though and I have a feeling it doesn't work. Would love to see it up and running.
Halloween is long gone but the pumpkins round the corner are still going strong! Good effort!

And after 8.5 miles of cycling and exploring, I arrive at Phib HQ. First stop is to the most important place... the table football table! Then it's time for some serious Phlibbing.

Obviously, unless you leave super early your not going to be able to do a great deal of exploring, but just try to open your brain to what your eyes see every day! And, if your in no rush after work, why not have a little play after work.
Remember though - Safety first! Don't play around in traffic, especially when it's dark!

Peace out and happy cycling! Carl.



Instant LoMo



Here at Phlib we love Lomography and we love Movember! If you're the same, then we've found a way to embrace them both. Introducing the caMOra! Take photos with a stylish moustache of your own design!


Now you know what you need, the rest is simple. If you need a little help though, here's a step by step guide:

Step 1. Cut out a moustache from the card using the scissors

Step 2. Stick the moustache to the camera using the tape

Simple! The caMOra is also great if you can't quite gather a cool level of facial hair naturally.

Peace out, Carl



Christmas Sale!



Yes it's that time of year again! We having a massive sale here at Phlib during the run up to Christmas. But it's not just the photo wall that we've got on offer... there's loads of Phlib products! Check it out here! This one is great if you have lots of little stockings that need filling; 8 Phlib photo cables for 8 Christmas stockings. 20% off - easy!

Also make any purchase before December and get the Phlib Early Bird discount! 

Use code: PHLIBMAS


Classic Movembers Time Forgot...



So Movember is upon us again. If you don't know what Movember is; it's growing a kick ass moustache throughout November to raise vital funds and awareness for men’s health, specifically prostate cancer and testicular cancer. For more information check out the Movember site here.

We thought we'd take a look back at some of those classic Movembers that have perhaps been forgotten over the years.


Alfred Hitchcock began writing a screen play about a killer moustache but couldn't complete it before December. No longer a current subject, he changed his brutal moustaches for birds. Oh how different his career could have been.


'My Moustache gave me the edge over Liston' states Muhammad Ali after the fight. He wanted to keep the facial hair but was ordered to remove it on December 1st by the World Boxing Association because it was far to intimidating.


The Ramones even changed their name to The Ramos and released a hit single called 'Handlebar High School'. Johnny Ramone shaved his off a little early though after turning up at a Village People rehearsal by mistake.


Unfortunately Louis also had to shave his beast off mid November because it was interfering with his trumpet playing.


This was a big achievement for Churchill because of his seething hate for upper lip hair. Just look at how uncomfortable he looks with a moustache.                          
Humphrey Bogart got the lead in Casablanca because of this stylish piece. Everyone fell for him. But when he turned up for filming in December 1941, Judy Garland (the intended lead lady) walked. The producer drafted in Ingrid Bergman last minute and the film turned out to be a great success.

In November 1977 Woody Allen wrote a short article for The New Yorker entitled; 'The Comic Tragedy of Facial (and other) Hairs'. He grew out a mini Groucho to help him write. It was complete coincidence that it coincided with Movember! Andy Warhol made a film in the 60's called; 'Growing a Moustache'. The film was 30 days long and was a single take of Andy's face growing out his upper lip. The soundtrack was written by The Velvet Underground. The film put Lou Reed of facial hair for life. This photo is a still from day 17.


A lot of people think the moon landing happened in July, but it actually took place November 21st. Here's Buzz supporting a very impressive 21 days growth. Rumour has it that his moustache was so big, you actually see it from earth.

So I hope this has help raise awareness of Movember and I hope you have been inspired to tash! It's not too late to catch up with the others. You could probably overtake me in less than a day!

Must dash, Carl.



20 Years of Lomography



Yes, Birthday Joys Lomography! 20 years of film revival. We love Lomography because they share a vary similar mantra to Phlib. We both share a love of the printed photograph. If you haven't heard of Lomography before, read their story here. Also, check their website here and get inspired! 

I've only just got into Lomography. I picked up a Diana Mini a few months ago and I'm loving it! Harry is a long time Lomographer though and takes pretty stunning photos. Check out his Lomo fisheyes, they look very cool on the Phlib 4x4 frame.


Go forth and Lomo. Peace out, Carl.


Photo Tips: Shutter - Camera Movement


Camera movement is often something fairly undesired while taking a photo, but there are times when it can look great! Moving the camera during longer exposures lets you use it much like a paint brush. Only this is much more unpredictable! Colours and images will blur and the end result is often a dreamy, impressionist version of the scene.


This style of photography can range from high drama or very subtle. It will depend on the light, colour and amount of movement. The more you move the camera and the longer the exposure - the more abstract the image will become. The photo above was taken of my band by my girlfriend. There we lots of very sharply focused photos but this was my favourite of all the photos taken that night. There's so much action in this photo, it really matched the on stage atmosphere.


This method is a great way of representing movement, fun, distress, confusion, energy as well as more subtle dreamy feelings. The following series of photos were taken at Glastonbury Festival a couple years ago. They were completely accidental (I may have had a few beers and forgot to change my camera setting!) but in my opinion they represent the happy chaos of Glastonbury  perfectly.  





So, do not delete accidents - they may turn out to be fantastic when you look back over them. If you want to give the camera movement technique a try here are some useful tips:

Start out with just a 1 second exposure. Depending on the light, you wont need much more than that. From here you can experiment with longer exposures. 

Have a play with your ISO setting. For smoother, more saturated image, use a low ISO. If you want something more impressionist and grainy, use a higher ISO.

These are two good things to think about if you want a bit more control, but if like me, you like things to be a lot more unpredictable, try not to worry too much. Don't think - just snap.

Give it a try and make sure you show us what you come up with on our Facebook page.

Peace out, Carl


Vintage Halloween


Are you stuck for what costume to wear for Halloween this year? Check out these old school costumes for some vintage inspiration!


These two look very 50s sci fi!


What came first...

For more of these fantastic costumes from way back when, visit Flavourwire here.

Also... Don't forget there's 25% off all our red frames in our Halloween Blood Red Sale!